Chlorine from a saltwater chlorinator is produced in an electrolytic cell. The cell uses the chloride in the saltwater to produce chlorine when pool water is treated with a small quantity of salt. When it comes to keeping your pool clean and healthy, this strategy is second to none in both efficiency and economy.
Swimming in a saltwater pool also reduces the risk of eye and skin irritation, as well as the unpleasant odor associated with chlorine pools. And the water’s salt content is so minimal that it’s barely noticeable. It’s so low that it’s less than what’s in a teardrop, making it lovely to swim in and easy on the skin.
Is algaecide necessary for a saltwater pool?
Due to the fact that saltwater pools’ systems turn salt into chlorine, the same algaecide solutions used in chlorine pools are required for saltwater pools. Green algae and black spot algae are less common in pools with soft water, but they can still grow there if the conditions are right.
A pool algaecide isn’t a must-have for maintenance. Applying a shock treatment, brushing the pool, or washing and filtering the water are all excellent ways to get rid of algae. To avoid the need for shock treatment altogether or to prolong the clarity of the water after applying shock, use an algaecide of sufficient grade to prevent algae development in the pool water and prevent some growths from sticking to the pool sides.
How to Use Algaecide in Saltwater Pools
When dealing with a severe algae outbreak, the first step is always to clean the pool.
First, give the water in your pool a shock treatment to get things started. Algae can be eliminated using this method. In addition to operating the pool filter every day, brushing the pool walls will help remove dead algae from the water.
It is quite difficult, from a scientific point of view, to eradicate all algae spots from bodies of water. The pool shock will kill the majority of the algae spores, but it won’t get rid of every single piece of algae in the water.
This is where chlorine comes into play. Chlorinated water is toxic to algae and hence should be avoided. The saltwater system’s chlorine eliminates any chance of algae or bacterial growth. Nonetheless, it isn’t always enough to prevent a subsequent outbreak. As a result of the favorable conditions provided by sunlight and warm water, rapid algae growth is most likely to be observed during the warmer months of the summer. An algaecide added to the pool can help reduce the viability of algal spores, making it more difficult for them to germinate and ultimately killing them.
After a shock treatment or if your pool is free of algae, add algaecide.
In the event that the water in the pool is still colored green, you will need to carry out the shocking procedure once more (you can do this up to three times), as well as keep the filter running for a longer period of time, in order to eradicate the algae before moving on to the next phase.
Before adding chemicals to your pool that target algae, you must first shock the system to drastically elevate the pH. Before adding an algaecide to the water, you should wait at least 24 hours after applying a shock treatment. When combined with high concentrations of chlorine, algaecides can cause dangerous chemical reactions. Do not proceed until the pool’s chlorine levels have returned to normal.
You can determine the precise pH of the water with the help of a high-quality chlorine testing kit. Swimming pools should have a pH between 7 and 7.6. Still too high? Hold off on adding an algaecide for a while longer. If your pool’s chlorine level drops too low, you can bring back the algae by adding more chlorine pills.
There are a wide variety of algaecides available for use in pools. The most popular algaecides are copper-based, but they can leave stains on metal pool fixtures and won’t be effective if the pool’s pH is already high. There are some excellent alternatives to copper-based algaecides, such as quat and polyquat algaecides.
To get rid of algae in the pool, a polyquat algaecide is a good place to start. If none of these options work, you can always switch to something containing copper.
Carefully read the algaecide’s directions and follow them to the letter to ensure the best possible results. Methods of application for algaecides can vary depending on the specific product.
If you apply the product correctly, you can keep your pool algae-free for a period of six months.
Always aim for a pH of 7.2–7.6 and an alkalinity of 80–120 ppm in your pool water. The current water level is sufficient to prevent the return of algae.
Applying an algaecide to your pool on a regular basis is the best way to maintain the pool’s clarity and prevent the growth of algae. Don’t forget to take your next dose as instructed. Some algaecides must be used as frequently as once a week to be effective, while others can be effective for up to six months.
How to get your chlorinator ready for use
Determine the optimal salt concentration for your pool.
As soon as summer arrives, check to see if there is enough salt in the pool to last the entire season. The amount of salt in your pool will change based on the model of chlorinator you use. We recommend a salt concentration of between 3,000 and 4,000 ppmin the pool to last the entire season. The amount of salt in your pool will change based on the model of chlorinator you use. We recommend a salt concentration of between 3,000 and 4,000 ppm. Pool water should be tested and the necessary amount of salt added to get it up to the appropriate level.
Clean the salt cells.
Always make sure to turn off the electricity to the salt cell unit before checking on the cells inside. If you have a salt water chlorinator, remember to turn off the power so there is no risk of getting shocked. The electrolysis of the salt in the water results in the production of hypochlorous acid.
Now that the salt cell won’t explode if you remove the electricity, you can inspect it for mineral buildup. Mineral deposits, to the untrained eye, will appear to be a chalky substance. For self-cleaning units, a quick rinse under the water hose should be all that’s needed to restore the salt cells to their original condition.
It may be necessary to backwash the salt cell with an acid solution if using a hose doesn’t do the trick. A salt cell is filled with a solution made by adding 1 part muriatic acid to 9 parts water. Just give the acid solution 10 minutes to do its thing, and then throw it away. Remove all traces of acid by giving it a good rinsing from the inside out, as chlorine and acid should not interact.
Now that you’ve removed the salt, your cell should be as good as new.If any residues remain after rinsing, you should try again.
If you still have problems (like a low salt reading or other errors) after cleaning, it’s possible that your salt cell is broken and needs to be replaced.
What setting should my pool chlorinator be on?
Put the salt water chlorinator anywhere between 80 and 100 percent now that summer has arrived. For a number of reasons, the pool will need all the chlorine your unit can make.
How to look after your cell chlorinator
Don’t put your salt cell through unnecessary stress by operating the chlorinator for more than 8 hours per day or at 100% capacity.
With conditioners and stabilizers, the sun’s UV rays won’t break down the chlorine in your salt cell. This will make your salt cell last longer.
Maintain a stable pH level. If the PH is below 7.2, the salt cell will erode, and if it’s above 7.6, the chlorine will be less effective. Use muriatic acid to lower the PH and soda ash to raise it.
Make sure the pool’s salt level is always just right. The electrode coating will deteriorate at low salt levels, while the chlorinator will fail at high salt levels.
Once scale has built up on the electrodes, you should use a good salt cell cleaner to clean them thoroughly and check them often.
What causes scale to build up in a salt cell?
Both the heat and the high pH produced in the salt cell’s ECG make it a promising breeding habitat.
Hotter water causes more calcium to precipitate out of the pool’s chemical solutions and form a deposit. When the water gets hotter, calcium comes out of the water and sticks to the pool heater.
The high pH results from the electrolysis of salt to produce chlorine at the generator (NaOH). Scaling can form on the pool’s surface and its fixtures if the pH isn’t kept stable.
How to clean the salt cell and remove scale build-up
- First, get some muriatic acid, a bucket, and a garden hose.
- Next, switch off the pool’s filter.
- Then detach the salt cell from its terminals carefully.
- Using a garden hose, wash the cell plates.
- Use a gentle acid wash if the tenacious buildup persists. Wearing protective rubber gloves, combine four parts water with one part muriatic acid in a large container. You should never add acid to water.
- Assemble the salt cell and let it stand, then add the muriatic acid. Give it 15 to 20 minutes to soak. It is imperative that the electrical connections of the cells not be covered.
- After soaking, give the cell another thorough rinsing with the garden hose.
- Dispose of the acid mixture in a safe way.
- Finally, replace the cells.